We typically start the process with a complimentary Meet & Greet appointment. This allows us to inspect your vehicle in person, accurately measure the available space, discuss viable options, and provide education on renewable energy solutions. Our goal is to ensure you can make fully informed decisions and have realistic expectations for the installation.

Following the appointment, we'll send you a detailed email outlining the recommended components and options, along with their associated costs, tailored to our discussion.

We then usually schedule a phone call to review the proposal together and address any questions you may have.

Once we've finalized the plan, we'll provide a precise labor estimate based on our extensive experience with similar installations

My hourly rate is $95, and if we decide to bring in my partner for extra support, his time is billed at an additional $60 per hour. I don't charge for our initial Meet & Greet, putting together your custom package, or any emails/texts along the way

You can never have too much solar power—the maximum array size is ultimately limited only by the available roof space.

That said, excluding the power needed to run an air conditioner, I typically recommend a minimum of 400W-600W for systems where the refrigerator runs on propane. For better reliability during inclement weather or if using a DC-powered (electric) refrigerator, 800W+ is preferable.

Most standard RV applications won't need more than 1,200W of solar unless you're specifically trying to power an air conditioner with renewable energy

With our guidance, we typically have clients purchase all major ('big-ticket') components directly using the links we provide. This limits the amount of inventory I need to keep stock, ensures no markup on the parts and allows you, as the original purchaser, to handle any future warranty claims straight with the manufacturer—eliminating the need to contact us down the line.

The maximum battery bank capacity is often limited by the available space in your RV. While we frequently relocate battery banks to alternative storage bays for greater flexibility, some customers prefer to retain the original location—such as under the entry steps—for convenience.

That said, I typically recommend an absolute minimum of 240Ah of usable capacity for most applications. Depending on budget and space constraints, doubling or tripling that amount (to 480–720Ah usable) is ideal. You can never have too much battery capacity, as it provides a critical reserve during periods of inclement weather or reduced solar charging.

As a general rule of thumb:

• You can safely utilize ~50% of a lead-acid battery's rated capacity (including flooded, GEL, or AGM types) to maximize lifespan.

• Lithium batteries (LiFePO4/LFP) allow for ~80% usable capacity (some say 100%), offering significantly more practical energy from the same rated Ah.

If you're upgrading or planning a new system, feel free to share your specific power needs (e.g., daily usage, appliances, or boondocking duration), and I can help refine these recommendations further!

RV roofs and vehicle chassis experience significant flexing and twisting while traveling down the road. With a few exceptions—where panel placement requires larger sizes—I typically recommend installing multiple 200W rigid panels rather than fewer 300–400W versions.

Larger rigid glass panels are less tolerant of this deflection and movement, increasing the risk of micro-cracks or failure over time compared to smaller 200W models. Additionally, the cost per watt is generally comparable across these sizes. While larger panels might seem like they'd save on installation time, they often require extra mounting brackets or reinforcements to secure them against wind lift and vibration, offsetting much of that benefit.

We typically work mobile and come directly to your location for service.

However, when customers are visiting from out of town,  staying at RV parks that don’t allow on-site work, or when HOA rules prevent them from parking in their neighborhood, we have access to a couple of convenient business lots where we can perform the service instead.

Advantages of Lithium (LiFePO4/LFP) Batteries Over Lead-Acid (Flooded, AGM, GEL)

LiFePO4 batteries offer several key benefits compared to traditional lead-acid types, making them popular for RVs, off-grid solar, marine, and portable power applications.

• Higher Usable Capacity: LiFePO4 batteries can safely discharge to 80–100% of their rated capacity without damage, providing nearly full usable power. In contrast, lead-acid batteries are typically limited to 50% depth of discharge (DoD) to maintain longevity, effectively halving their practical capacity.

• Significantly Lighter Weight: LiFePO4 batteries weigh about half (or less) of equivalent-capacity lead-acid batteries due to higher energy density.

• Better Charge Efficiency: LiFePO4 batteries achieve 95–99% round-trip efficiency, wasting minimal energy as heat. Lead-acid batteries are around 80–85% efficient, losing more during charging and discharging.

• Superior Performance at High Discharge Rates: LiFePO4 has a very low Peukert's exponent (around 1.05), meaning capacity remains consistent even under heavy loads. Lead-acid batteries (exponent 1.2–1.5) lose effective capacity at higher currents due to the Peukert effect.

• Longer Lifespan: LiFePO4 batteries typically last 2,000–6,000+ cycles (often 12+ years with proper use), far outlasting lead-acid's 300–1,000 cycles (3–7 years).

Key Considerations When Switching to LiFePO4

• Converter/Charger Compatibility: Many RV converters (for 120V shore power) are designed for lead-acid profiles and may not fully charge LiFePO4 batteries (often stopping at ~40-70%). In some instances, converters can be programmed or be made to work well with lithium, in others the converter portion may need to be replaced. 

• Solar Charge Controller: Ensure it supports LiFePO4 voltage profiles (typically 14.2–14.6V bulk/absorption). Most modern MPPT controllers have selectable settings.

• Vehicle Alternator Protection: Direct charging from a standard alternator can overload it due to LiFePO4's low resistance and high acceptance rate. A DC-to-DC charger is often recommended to limit current and provide proper staging.

Cold Weather Charging: LiFePO4 batteries should not be charged below freezing (0°C/32°F) to avoid damage. Consider models with built-in low-temperature protection or internal heaters if operating in sub-freezing conditions.

It is important to distinguish between the two main categories of lithium-ion batteries based on their cathode chemistry.

The first category includes oxide-based chemistries, such as Lithium Cobalt Oxide (LCO, often called "Li-cobalt") and Nickel Manganese Cobalt (NMC). These are commonly referred to broadly as "Li-ion" batteries. They offer high energy density but carry a greater risk of thermal runaway—a chain reaction that can lead to fire or explosion—especially if damaged, overcharged, or exposed to heat. In a fire, they can release highly toxic gases, including hydrogen fluoride (HF) from the electrolyte, as well as compounds involving cobalt or nickel.

The second category is Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO₄, or LFP). These batteries are inherently safer due to their stable olivine crystal structure and strong covalent phosphorus-oxygen (P-O) bonds. This structure resists breakdown at high temperatures (thermal runaway typically starts around 270°C, compared to ~150–210°C for oxide-based types) and prevents the release of oxygen, which fuels fires in other chemistries. Even under abuse conditions like overcharging, puncture, or physical damage, LFP batteries are highly resistant to thermal runaway, producing less heat and gas, and are generally considered incombustible.

We ONLY install the safer Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO₄, or LFP) chemistry!

Why a DC/DC Charger Is Usually Needed

Lithium batteries (particularly LiFePO4) differ significantly from traditional lead-acid or AGM batteries:

• They accept much higher charge currents (often whatever the source can provide) when depleted, potentially drawing 100+ amps from the alternator.

• This high, sustained draw overloads the alternator, causing overheating and premature failure (alternators are designed for lower-demand lead-acid starting batteries, not deep-cycle lithium house banks).

• Vehicle alternators provide a "dumb" constant voltage (typically 13.8–14.4V), lacking the multi-stage profile (bulk, absorption, float) ideal for lithium, which can lead to incomplete charging or overcharging.

• Many modern vehicles have "smart" alternators that vary output based on conditions, making direct charging unreliable or ineffective for lithium.

• If the lithium battery's BMS (battery management system) cuts off at full charge (e.g., to prevent overvoltage), it creates a sudden open circuit, spiking voltage and potentially damaging the alternator (unless the starter battery absorbs it).

Benefits of a DC/DC Charger

• Limits current draw (e.g., 20–60A models) to a safe level for your alternator.

• Provides a proper lithium charging profile for full, efficient charging (often reaching 100% SOC, unlike direct methods that may stop at 80–90%).

• Isolates the house and starter batteries, preventing issues like back-feeding or drainage.

• Protects against temperature extremes, overvoltage, and BMS disconnect spikes.

• Works with smart alternators and different battery chemistries.

Thank you to our use of properly sized and fused wiring, combined with superior workmanship—including precise crimping, heat shrinking, strain relief, and the application of split loom or conduit where appropriate—we have never experienced a failure due to mechanical issues.

While we cannot extend guarantees to the electronic components themselves, though as the original purchaser, you will have full access to the manufacturers' factory warranties.

Should any issue ever arise that is directly attributable to our workmanship, we will gladly repair it at no charge to you.

Our installation techniques far exceed those of most installers. We employ a robust combination of jack nuts, ¼-inch tri-rivets, and stainless steel self-drilling or standard screws—selected based on the roof’s material, surface, and thickness. Every bracket is sealed underneath with high-quality Dicor lap sealant before fastening, and we fully encapsulate the entire mounting structure for maximum protection.

We believe overkill is underrated when it comes to solar panel installations. Our methods go well beyond typical factory standards, which often simply screw panels directly into thin roofing material and apply sealant only on top. By prioritizing structural integrity and weatherproofing at every step, we deliver installations built to last a lifetime.

A 2,000W (or 2kVA) inverter can typically handle most standard household appliances, delivering approximately 16–17A at 120V AC. This is sufficient for everyday loads like lights, fans, TVs, refrigerators, microwaves, or power tools.

A 3,000W (or 3kVA) inverter is generally recommended if you plan to run an air conditioner or multiple high-power appliances simultaneously.

Other key considerations include:

• Your shore power connection: 30A (single-phase, providing up to ~3,600W) is common for smaller RVs or basic setups, while 50A (split-phase, providing up to ~12,000W total) is needed for larger systems with dual air conditioners or heavier loads.

• Whether to choose an inverter/charger combo (which can charge batteries from shore power and automatically switch sources) versus a standalone inverter.

• The type of transfer switch: internal (built into the inverter/charger for seamless switching) or external (for more custom setups).

120VAC air conditioners draw varying amounts of current depending on the model and cooling capacity. Once the power has been inverted,  I’ve seen some draw ~100+ADC whilst others draw ~25ADC.  Once the desired temperature is reached, the compressor's output modulates or cycles off, reducing power draw—the duty cycle depends on factors like room size, insulation, and outdoor conditions.

We can measure your specific unit's actual draw before committing to any setup. As a general guideline for off-grid solar replenishment, a 1,200W+ solar array is often the minimum needed to reliably offset 3–5 hours of daily air conditioning usage (accounting for real-world efficiency and variable runtime).

In contrast, 12VDC air conditioners (designed for off-grid/RV use) are typically more efficient for battery/solar systems, as they avoid inverter losses. Many operate at 18–30 amps (around 200–600 watts) in economy or variable-speed modes, making them a stronger option when the primary goal is replenishing the battery bank via solar input alone.

A Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) charge controller essentially acts like a switch. When delivering maximum output (during bulk charging), it connects the solar panel or array directly to the battery. This pulls the panel's operating voltage down to match the battery's voltage, which sacrifices efficiency since the panel no longer operates at its optimal voltage (Vmp).

In contrast, a Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) charge controller keeps the panel or array operating at its ideal voltage (the maximum power point). It then uses a DC-DC converter (typically a buck converter) to step down the voltage while increasing the current delivered to the battery—conserving nearly all the available power.

For example: 10A at 18V from the panel equals 180W. An MPPT controller can convert this to approximately 15A at 12V (also 180W, minus minor conversion losses).

MPPT controllers harvest nearly all the power available from the panel or array, making them especially beneficial—and often essential—for larger panels or with arrays wired in series, which produce inherently higher voltages (Vmp well above battery voltage).

When solar panels are connected in parallel, the lowest voltage (Vmp) from any panel tends to influence the overall array voltage. In series, the lowest current (Imp) limits the entire string.

Partial shading affects a solar panel's output current (Imp) much more severely than its voltage (Vmp). This occurs because modern panels include bypass diodes, which activate to route current around shaded cell groups—often bypassing 1/3 to 1/2 of the panel and causing a sharp drop in current while voltage remains relatively stable (or drops by a smaller percentage).

For example, consider a typical 100W panel with ~5–6A Imp and ~18V Vmp under full sun. If partially shaded (e.g., covering one bypass diode section), Imp might drop dramatically to ~1–2A (60–80% loss), while Vmp could fall to ~16V (about 11% loss).

In this scenario with two identical panels (one shaded, one unshaded):

• Series connection: The shaded panel's reduced current limits the entire string, causing both panels to operate at the lower Imp → resulting in ~80% total power loss.

• Parallel connection: The unshaded panel continues producing near full power, while only the shaded panel suffers major loss → resulting in just ~12–40% total power loss (depending on shading severity).

Conclusion: A parallel array will almost always outperform a series array under partial or uneven shading across panels, as the unshaded panels remain largely unaffected.

The main downside of parallel configurations is higher current flow, which requires thicker wire gauge between the array and charge controller to minimize voltage drop and heat. Many "solar-ready" RVs come pre-wired with 10 AWG cable, which safely handles up to ~30A (suitable for ~300–400W arrays in parallel, depending on run length). For larger parallel arrays, thicker wire (e.g., 8 or 6 AWG) may be needed.

In some cases—based on expected shading sources (e.g., roof AC units, vents) or preferred camping environments—a full upgrade to larger wire, or a hybrid series-parallel configuration, can optimize performance while using existing wiring.